Milano

July 31, 2010

Milano. It is a fabulous city that has integrated its past with a firm footing in its present. It is a city known for its business savvy armed with an unsurpassed sense of fashion. Milano is of course home to the powerhouse players in ultimate luxury labels, such as Dolce & Gabanna, Prada, Missoni, and the list goes on and on and on. Paris and Milano are in constant competition for who “wears” the title for fashion capital. This city parades its decadent taste without pretention-which I love. My guidebook states that the piazzas are not as full of warm inviting people in Milano as in other parts of the country- however I would state that has not been my experience. Since being here I have received a ride on a scooter from the train station to downtown, was offered to use a bike to get back to where I was staying (because my feet were hurting- I took off my shoes on a park bench and rested my head on the wall and closed my eyes- and it immediately was concerning to people around me wondering if I was ok – even a doctor that just happened to be close by asked if I was ok!), and was given a free macaroon by this splendid ultra chic French bakery. So to say that the Milanese are not as friendly is not true. Its like this, you will find the people in Woodland more inviting than say the people in Portland at first encounter, but that is because of a pace of life that dictates the level and cadence of engagement. Here it is no different. A warm smile and openness to culture is your ticket to doors being opened for you-true of all places and all things.

There are a million suits running around this well-groomed city. Washington D.C. has a million suits running around but there is a clear difference in these city’s opinion of what constitutes as business attire. These suits I am speaking of are tailored- you know the kind that the models wear in the magazines, the ones that people from our corner of the world seem to think are completely frivolous and unnecessary? Well, tailored fine suits are a must here- and thank God for it.

I found myself in heaven at Peck Deli. Think Whole Foods but with white gloves and bow ties and they say “Vegan, what?” Every purchase is wrapped up in super fine packaging and topped with a bow- no matter how little the purchase! Most importantly Peck is home to the best gelato in all of the world- a prize bestowed by the ultimate connoisseur- Me! The gelato has no neon colors, is not displayed in heaps but rather behind glass and kept fresh in stainless bins with elegant copper lids. The flavors are numerous and made of exceptional ingredients. I consumed with incredible satisfaction, orange chocolate with real candied orange and fine chocolate you could taste through the cream and sugar, white chocolate hazelnut, and my all time stand-by straciatella (vanilla base with hard chocolate swirls). Anyone that knows me- knows I am certainly willing to pay top $ for fine things, but am willing at excruciating lengths to hunt for a deal. Well here at Pecks I had to do neither. All of the attendants graciously accepted my request for small orders of everything- due to my wanting to consume my items per oggi (that day) and as they also say here I am traveling “solo”. ** Typically at places in Italy where you purchase meats and cheeses they make you order a minimum order of so many kg’s. For the size of gelato that I purchased its only about 1 euro more than other typical shops and you get to try three flavors rather than the usual 2- heck of a deal by my book..and so much better..hard to go back to any other gelato- but I will suffer through anyhow! **Gelato is a staple in my diet- consuming at least once a day- yesterday was a double dip day- I refused to resist!

Yesterday evening I was tired and not really in the mood to continue anything by foot (good thing no one was traveling with me- the only one I could be cranky with was myself!), but I continued anyway knowing that it would be better if I did and it was Friday night and I knew something would be happening more than any other night. So I ventured down to an area that had been recommended to me by a local called Porta Genova. I am so glad I went (the movie “Yes Man” has imparted more wisdom than one would think). I was welcomed by a vibrant display of youth, art, food and water. The Porta Genova area has a small system of canals connected by small walking bridges. On either side of these canals is a plethora of bars all offering the ultimate happy hour (again I love a deal!)- outstanding ambiance- the bars bring all their chairs and tables out into the street so you are sitting right next to the water, buy one drink and get a buffet of appetizers for about 8-9 euros- ultra fab for this regazza. Not only are spirits and antipasto on display but also are the works of local artists that fan their masterpieces along the waters edge. Shops stay open late taking advantage of this area of town’s insomnia. Live music filtered through the air and was a perfect topper to my magical evening.

Sicilia

Sicily in a nutshell is amazing! The landscapes serene, the waters as delicious as their gelato, and the people are nothing short of splendid!

Sicilia is where Italians go to vacation. It is an island hence a little hard to get to..however well worth the trip.

The beauty of this island can stand on its own but it would not be what it is if not for the people that make this place shine. I was tripping through Sicily with my little sis and bro-in-law...our entourage seemed to attract attention and we were greeted with large smiles and an honest intrigue by the locals. During our time together we were invited aboard 4 boats, given numerous rides (by car), and were treated like family in Trapani at what I believe was our favorite Ostaria (in short a restaurant) in all of Italy. We arrived in Trapani at 9:30 PM and had not yet found a place to stay nor had we had any dinner. Immediately upon stepping off the bus, a Captain of a yacht and his crew spotted us and he directed us to a fine place for a meal. We took his advice (since most advice given to us by the locals- has been spot on) and found ourself at the Ostaria. The wait to eat was long being Saturday night and given the fact that Italians take at some times painstakingly long to finish their meal (getting up to smoke at least once if not twice during courses). The wait was of course worth it. We were immediately put in the care of the owners, Antonio and Catia. They not only fed us splendidly, but they also got us a fabulous place to stay, and the meal ended with a magical moment. We were some of the last to leave the Ostaria that night and out of nowhere this gentleman at the table next to us starts playing this guitar..and then people around start singing these familiar- what I presume to be Italian folk songs...then at first sheepishly this beautiful Italian woman with a sultry voice starts singing these incredibly soulful songs that you only could dream of hearing..and to0 coincidental to believe it actually was happening. After hearing many encores we then left the Ostaria and headed to our B&B....Antonio and Catia came to check up on us 3 times while we were waiting to get in to our apartment! Once we met them it was as if they felt we were theirs to care for...and it was this immediate love from them that got us hooked! We visited their Ostaria every night we were in Trapani...not to mention the food is out of this world! The same care they gave to us they give to each of their patrons. They joke all night with customers, grin from ear to ear, sit down with you to take your order (their isn't a menu on site), and engage with one another in the most loving way- out of the corner of our eye we saw Antonio as he was walking by Catia stop for a moment kiss her on the back and keep on his business of serving his customers. Its this loving manner that Antonio and Catia shared with us that Trapani and Italy will forever have a warm place in our hearts.

Arriving in Italy

July 16, 2010

Arrived in Roma yesterday! I had booked a room at the same time of my flight and had really no idea where the heck I was staying…to my sheer delight I ended up in this

little town; Ostia Antica right outside of Roma. This little town showed me the Italy I am after. When I arrived in Italy, I was caffeine, food and sleep deprived, but I took the advice of Rick Steve’s and kept moving. I meandered my way down to the town center of Ostia Antica and I started snooping…..this led me to a little café where I ordered a latte and then another, the quintessential Italian woman attendant behind the counter respectively obliged my needs! It was only after my second latte that I was able to relax and take in my surroundings. I then got up and began uncovering this little town. I walked along cobblestone streets only big enough to walk on, clean laundry hanging above me drying on the lines between buildings, neighborhood felines walking and cozying up to whoever will spare the time, a cheeky young boy that helped me pick out my frutta (and what a great job he did), a panera shop where I got the cutest little mini pizzas you have ever seen- think silver dollar pancakes but pizza!..and oh so many other nuances worthy of mention but will spare to list. The most wonderful surprise beckoned me to the town center..where when I walked in the ancient bell start tolling- there was no one there but me-the perfect scene for a movie! I then turned to see I was standing right next to a castle…I then stepped inside to find that niente costa (didn’t cost anything!). Once inside I looked up..and heard the pigeons fluttering and cooing…this was when I realized I really was in Italy.

A few fun tid bits:

Transportation: Public transit is no big deal. It’s the same as in any big city in the U.S. just in Italian. People are willing to help if they can. I commuted my entire first day by public transit without having a clue before I got there as to what bus to take...I made it without any issues…not to mention must cheaper. In Rome to ride the Metro and buses it is 4 Euros for all day.

The Men: I love the way Italian men have no problem communicating the way they appreciate the way a woman looks. This could be either by giving one intentional look, maybe a second, or third, or even a stare, or maybe honking their horn, or maybe a whistle, or maybe a shout…whatever it is they are not afraid to be forward! Va benne!

June 28

Whew- finally did it! I just purchased my ticket for Italy. So un-nerving….it sounds stupid- I know. I tend to think of myself as this sophisticated person willing to try anything, but when it comes down to it I am afraid to leave my familiar surroundings. But there is more to it than that. I recently resigned my somewhat prestigious Executive Director position to pursue my dreams and my passion…and along with so many others that seem to be fleeing to Italy, now home to the “weary-heart refugees”, I am in the throws of a complicated relationship break-up or stay-together dilemma. A drama I never foresaw and am reluctant to admit I have been subject to. I am in uncharted territory in so many ways, that leaving the familiar creates a sort of anxiety. But to hell with it - off to Italy to clear my mind and eat divine food for complete nourishment, respite of the soul and all the other things us fool hearted romantics dream of.