Back in the "U-S of A"

I have been back in my motherland for a couple of weeks now. Being gone brought things into perspective. No not the huge weighted thunderbolt answer to all of my questions and my soul searching- but rather I was given gratitude. I missed my people. I have the best web of hearts and hands anyone could ever ask for. I longed to be back in their presence. These people- these fantastic, amazing people that make me full, happy and loved. These are the people that read my blog (because they support and love me), that pick me up at the airport with a hand-made welcome home sign carefully crafted by their 18 mo. old daughter, have flowers waiting on my door step with welcome home letters by their 2 yr. old & 4 yr. old sons, the crazy wonderful people that make a gigantic poster and stretch it across my door welcoming me home in Italian, the people that set their phone to Rome time- just to know when I am waking up, the people that get me a travel book and phone card to be connected in the country and out, the people that gave me life, the people that pray for me every day, the people that run through a train station with me, the people that give me a journal because they know I love to write my thoughts, these people I share meals with, these people I drink coffee with, the people that say hello with genuine interest and smile. These people, they are my people. I love them- they make my world beautiful. Thank you for being you and sharing your heart with me.

Firenze..also known as...... Florence

I arrived in Florence with a gung-ho determination to seek out art. Florence is home to many a museum and some of the best art in the world. My first night in Florence I enjoyed, I had a nice meal at ZaZa Trattoria-albeit a hit with the English speaking tourists, and then found my runner up for the best gelato prize, and that would be Grom. I had super fabulous gelato and was befriended by two locals who gave me a mini private walking tour of Florence’s sights near the Duomo. I have realized that because of my attraction to people and my genuine fascination with them, that these experiences of connection are what elevate and transform any experience for me. The next day I did go see the Duomo in the splendor of the sun and take in the Uffizia art museum- home to what feels like zillions of pieces of Renaissance art. I was pretty exhausted by the end of the day from walking and walking and walking (which I love), and from essentially darting the tourist scene. This trip has been revealing of myself in a lot of ways, and one other thing I have recognized that maybe wasn’t so emphatically clear earlier, was that tourist destinations tend to annoy the hell out of me. I find myself scathing at the English speakers- which totally isn’t fair- I speak English and am pretty horrible when it comes to Italian, but I do try! Not to mention I am in Italy to discover it too! So my prejudice is completely unfounded and ridiculous. I will take it one more layer and uncover a character issue here. I like things that I discover or experience to be mine- and mine alone or at least limited to who I choose to experience it with. This is a running theme- I was like this with my sister growing up, when discovering a new restaurant or new find I stake claim in it as my conquering alone, I hoard the attention of others and at times won’t invite other people to attend something because I want all of their attention and don’t want to taint it with someone else experiencing it…so I guess this trip has helped me realize once again a trait maybe not so beautiful. Ahh introspection what a glorious thing!

Lucca

Lucca is the last in tact and remaining fortified city in Italy. This creates a fun atmosphere in of itself. It is a pretty quiet city…except when it comes to their soccer team! I was walking through the town in my aimless way, feeling the gravitational pull to the inside confines of shopkeepers doors, and I heard this chanting and loud music coming from down the street. Like the pied piper the sound pulled me in and I started walking toward it. I walked to a square where there was a whole hoard of people and a stage. I managed to walk right into this parade of sorts. The community of Lucca was having a celebration to announce its soccer team. The event was M.C.’d by some beautiful celebrity (have no idea who she is), televised and certainly not lacking with enthusiasm. Often whomever was talking; puffery and long winded speeches is not limited only to our politicians and friends in the states-like I have learned with so many things, some things are certainly universal; would be interrupted with this super loud chanting from these young men that were reverent in displaying their love for their hometown team. Lucca in my opinion is understated with its prominence and could easily be forgettable and blend in with other Italian cities, its this simplicity that is maybe its most attractive feature.

Postcard perfect

Cinque Terre:

I had it in my mind that I wanted to see the Cinque Terre. It is a must on many people’s trip to Italy, especially amongst other Europeans. My sister Ashley and my brother in law Kenny (aka Ken Dawg or KenTouchThis) had all ready stopped by these little villages on their way down south to meet up with me- and gave it rave reviews. With such heightened reviews I decided I must go..if not for any other reason than to work on my tan! The Cinque Terre is comprised of five little fishing towns hanging off of the cliffs and almost into the sea, with pastel colored buildings dotting the hillsides. I stayed in Levanto one of the more north towns. These towns are each separated by a 5-10 minute train ride and treacherous hillside! The landscape certainly paints a beautiful picture, however if I were writing a travel guide I would tell you to skip the Cinque Terre and go to Sicily! All though maybe I wouldn’t- because than the secret would get out. I got really really spoiled by going to Sicily, and going there first. Sicily is so gorgeous, the people so incredibly kind, and the communities hardly scathed by tourists that it left a huge impression on me and tainted my whole view of Italy. The Cinque Terre if taken in for its beauty than it is a must see, but as for the whole package I believe its lacking. It is such an attraction by visitors, and college kids on break seeking out their party scene-that the ambience gets pretty murky. The language I heard predominately was English, and everything is geared toward tourists. I can’t blame the towns and communities within the C.T., they base their livelihood on this crazy activity. I would describe this area as the Cabo of Italy..and I’ve never been Cabo Wabo! When our friends told us at the San Pietro Ostaria that Sicily loves us..I think they got it wrong, we love Sicily!

Verona Part Two

Verona is incredibly beautiful with a river snaking around the city’s wall, acting as a natural moat, and with maddening small city streets, and outlying tranquil hillsides make it a perfect place for someone to carry out a few relaxing days. Not only was Verona the host for one of my most memorable scenes, the opera, it also is the home to one of the most fabulous vintage shops ever, called Celine. French born Celine moved to Italy 20 plus years ago to be with her Dutch husband. Somewhere during the timeline they moved to Florida where Celine worked in a high end second hand store. She decided when they moved back to Italy that she was going to do the same thing but better. I am sure she succeeded in her goal because I was beyond delighted. Celine’s is a treasure trove of splendid jewels. The store is packed with fabulous labels such as Chanel, Dolce & Gabanna, Marni, and just about any luxury clothing label you can imagine, she has it. I spent an entire afternoon with Celine and her husband, Paul. They encouraged me to stay as long as I liked, and indeed I did. I spent hours inspecting and trying on the delicious offerings, and left with satisfaction and my wardrobe a little bigger.

Verona-Evening of Divine Proportions

Ok, I stated that my night before was magical, but last night took the cake and was elevated into a category that can only be described as celestial. I use adjectives with great chivalry and grand liberal freedom, but last night really was over the top amazing with only one blip into dark abyss.

In one fell swoop I high-tailed it out of Milano (skipping a couple of things I still wanted to do) realizing that one very important thing I wanted to do may not be available if I did not get a move-on. This thing I wanted to do was see an opera in Verona. Every summer Verona hosts an Opera festival in its Roman Arena in the center of town. This arena throughout history has held up to 25,000 spectators for the likes of lets say executions, plays and whatever other medieval pastime was in vogue at the time. The arena has phenomenal acoustics and makes the most outstanding setting to hear an opera I do believe. The open air and stars above provided an almost cued soft summer breeze from time to time.

I was fortunate enough to see Aida, the most famous opera in Italy. I loved it! The opera singer’s voices are that of angels that at certain points gave me chills (especially Aida herself). There were no microphones yet you could hear them perfectly with any seat in the arena. Every element of the show was detailed in immaculate fashion. The pageantry of the costumes and stage were pieces of art all in of themselves, the orchestra tight and ambient, and the vastness of the crew incredible (I would say at times there were over a 100 people on stage at once). To even create more of an effect the production used the top steps of the arena itself to hold gargoyle or oracle type figures, that sometimes I would forget were there and then I would catch them out of the corner of my eye once again reminding me how intentional every element is in this production. This particular production had ballet intertwined within the arias, giving even more eye candy for us spectators. Every little moment was choreographed with sophistication and often there was so much going on that I often missed things. To say I was impressed is an understatement.

The crowd was full of vigor and excitement that gave the whole scene an amazing energy. Gents would send out words of praise after each aria- Brava! Bravissimo! Then when the conductor would leave or enter the stage, crazed attendants would yell, Brava Maestro! The conductor is held in the same level of importance as the singers themselves. The enthusiasm of the opera lovers was thrilling and entirely elevated the level of the show.

I mentioned that I had a moment that was not so grand in an otherwise unbelievable evening. During the opera there were two intermissions (the opera being big in so many things- it is also a 3-4 hour event!). At the second intermission I left the confines of the arena wall and went on a hunt to curb my ever present craving for sweets. Well, I apparently was a little bit late getting back- also no surprise to those that know me well. In an effort to protect the sanctity of the opera the attendants follow strict rules and you are not allowed back into your seat if you are late. I was so incredibly upset. The fine young attendants did explain that I could see the opera from the stone steps- what you and I would call the “cheap seats”. I was ticked, I threw a silent temper tantrum but also made it clear enough to those paying attention that I was clearly upset. I was so upset, at myself of course and the fact that a smile didn’t even get me past the blue rope to my premium seat. In every other situation in Italy it has worked without even trying. I guess this just goes to show you how much Italians love their opera and are dedicated to preserve their art. This I sincerely respect. I believe that there are lessons to be learned in every situation, this one not escaping this truth. So folks, words of wisdom for you to live by and that I impart to you, “Don’t do the third gelato.”