Verona-Evening of Divine Proportions

Ok, I stated that my night before was magical, but last night took the cake and was elevated into a category that can only be described as celestial. I use adjectives with great chivalry and grand liberal freedom, but last night really was over the top amazing with only one blip into dark abyss.

In one fell swoop I high-tailed it out of Milano (skipping a couple of things I still wanted to do) realizing that one very important thing I wanted to do may not be available if I did not get a move-on. This thing I wanted to do was see an opera in Verona. Every summer Verona hosts an Opera festival in its Roman Arena in the center of town. This arena throughout history has held up to 25,000 spectators for the likes of lets say executions, plays and whatever other medieval pastime was in vogue at the time. The arena has phenomenal acoustics and makes the most outstanding setting to hear an opera I do believe. The open air and stars above provided an almost cued soft summer breeze from time to time.

I was fortunate enough to see Aida, the most famous opera in Italy. I loved it! The opera singer’s voices are that of angels that at certain points gave me chills (especially Aida herself). There were no microphones yet you could hear them perfectly with any seat in the arena. Every element of the show was detailed in immaculate fashion. The pageantry of the costumes and stage were pieces of art all in of themselves, the orchestra tight and ambient, and the vastness of the crew incredible (I would say at times there were over a 100 people on stage at once). To even create more of an effect the production used the top steps of the arena itself to hold gargoyle or oracle type figures, that sometimes I would forget were there and then I would catch them out of the corner of my eye once again reminding me how intentional every element is in this production. This particular production had ballet intertwined within the arias, giving even more eye candy for us spectators. Every little moment was choreographed with sophistication and often there was so much going on that I often missed things. To say I was impressed is an understatement.

The crowd was full of vigor and excitement that gave the whole scene an amazing energy. Gents would send out words of praise after each aria- Brava! Bravissimo! Then when the conductor would leave or enter the stage, crazed attendants would yell, Brava Maestro! The conductor is held in the same level of importance as the singers themselves. The enthusiasm of the opera lovers was thrilling and entirely elevated the level of the show.

I mentioned that I had a moment that was not so grand in an otherwise unbelievable evening. During the opera there were two intermissions (the opera being big in so many things- it is also a 3-4 hour event!). At the second intermission I left the confines of the arena wall and went on a hunt to curb my ever present craving for sweets. Well, I apparently was a little bit late getting back- also no surprise to those that know me well. In an effort to protect the sanctity of the opera the attendants follow strict rules and you are not allowed back into your seat if you are late. I was so incredibly upset. The fine young attendants did explain that I could see the opera from the stone steps- what you and I would call the “cheap seats”. I was ticked, I threw a silent temper tantrum but also made it clear enough to those paying attention that I was clearly upset. I was so upset, at myself of course and the fact that a smile didn’t even get me past the blue rope to my premium seat. In every other situation in Italy it has worked without even trying. I guess this just goes to show you how much Italians love their opera and are dedicated to preserve their art. This I sincerely respect. I believe that there are lessons to be learned in every situation, this one not escaping this truth. So folks, words of wisdom for you to live by and that I impart to you, “Don’t do the third gelato.”